Thursday, June 11, 2009

Oriented within the Orient

In what was once a closed-port country, Japan has certainly served as a nest for foreign residents to make as-close-to culturally authentic homes. 
Kobe, a bustling port-city home to thousands of foreign residents, hosts Nankin-machi (Chinatown), a Chinese haven for those of the likeness and akin to the Orient.   
Once a residential area for Chinese merchants who settled in Kobe after Japan's ports opened to foreigners, it was solely  living quarters for Chinese inhabitants. Now, with over 10,000 Chinese settled in the greater Kobe area, Chinatown has become an eventful tourist attraction in one of the more commercial areas of town. 
Comparatively, San Francisco Chinatown seemed as much as a fulcrum for tourist activity as Kobe's. However, my sense about Nankin-machi seemed all that more "authentic." Perhaps the proximity to country itself spoke out in its cramped and disorienting alleyway streets. Or the seemingly fresh foods that swept steam into the faces of passerby's. Either way, there is certainly activity of the most dynamic kind. 

There is a stressful energy in Chinatowns. It makes me wonder if Chinese life is really like that. With such an overwhelming population, Chinese can easily inhabit areas and call them their own without adapting to the surrounding culture. Perhaps that's what makes them so unique. Or perhaps that's why from Chinatown to Chinatown, either the US or Japan, Chinatowns are non-uniquely Chinese?
I enjoyed my first taste of nikuman (japanese)-- bao zi (chinese). And when I say "enjoyed," I thoroughly devoured several and still have the hint of those sweet and savory pork-filled doughy delights swirling in my belly.
The streets were engulfed with outdoor food stands and restaurants...too many too choose from and with depressingly high prices for a sit-down meal. 
Brilliant colors prevail in signage, design and decor. Red is the color I most associate with China (for obvious reasons), but I have read that this is a contemporarily adored color and was once not considered as culturally poignant as it is today. 
Does Chinese culture venerate those wuvable wittle cute things as much as Japan? I think so.
Especially when they come in panda. 

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