Soul food from the streets

A hot dog stand in New York City is often overlooked as just being a quick fix. A momentary indulgence in a sauerkraut laden culinary landmark of American fast food. And the taco trucks strategically parked in the financial district for the Los Angeles lunch crowd are not sought out for anything other than cheap, convenient eats. So, the American image of street food may not have a paramount reputation for taste or quality. However, in traveling to Taipei, it's easy for any American to delight in some of the finer Taiwanese cuisine straight from the streets.

Food stalls and outdoor markets are located in dozens of central areas of Taipei as well as neighborhoods bordering the city. They boast a variety of foods, all of which are cooked fresh and made with local ingredients. Considering much is made-to-order and always to go, the portions are small and can be savored for as long as it takes you to get to the next vendor.

Stinky tofu (tso-dofu) is a common contender for spotlight in Taiwanese night markets. It is fermented tofu basted and grilled in a sweet teriyaki-like sauce and can be nicely coupled with pickled vegetables (or kimuchi).

Who knew fried chicken could be better than it is in the South? Americans pride themselves on knowing fried foods more so than any other nation, but the fried chicken found in Taipei blows any southern-bred chef out of the water. The chicken breast is flattened and fried twice over; once before requesting your order and once after. Spicy seasoning is optional and highly recommended. The meat is tender and juicy, and the batter is light and crisp with a crunch of pure satisfaction. Choosing this night market splendor might make it more difficult to save room for the other savories yet to come.

What fills the belly will also fulfill all other senses. Aside from what you actually eat, the bustle of the night markets are visually ingested in gulps. There is enough concentrated commotion to make the night market the evening's final destination. From locals to tourists to anchored expats, they line the streets sometimes for several miles and keep shops open until nearly 2am.

The variety of foods, the sensory overload of Taiwanese people and sordid smells swirling like ribbons in a baton competition shroud any sort of pride for the NY hot dog stand and brother stall of salted pretzels. What makes Taipei street food such a cultural prize is that it is symbolic of the liveliness of the city itself. The small portions and simple dishes mimic the humble hearts of the Taiwanese people. The food prepared per order is a mark of an honest culture. As the streets fill with people, the lights glisten from below the awnings of the stalls and the steam strolls thickly into the night air, there is a presence of the real soul of Taipei--one with distinct taste.